What is the Best Way to Dry Your Hair?
A recent study concluded, "Although using a hair dryer causes more surface damage than natural drying, using a hair dryer at a distance of 15 cm with continuous motion causes less damage than drying hair naturally." This finding left many people confused. Did this mean that air drying hair caused more damage than using a blow dryer? Isn't air drying supposed to be less damaging than using heat? Let me explain.
When our hair is wet, the bonds that hold its structure together become fragile, making the cellular membrane more susceptible to irreversible damage. As our hair dries, these bonds strengthen, and the outer layer, called the cuticle, shields the cellular membrane and cortex from potential internal damage. The cuticle layers can endure a certain percentage of surface damage before affecting the internal structure, as the cuticle protects our hair structure. The study concluded that while air drying doesn't damage the cuticle, it does cause irreversible internal cellular membrane damage. Drying with heat does cause slight damage to the outer cuticle layer during the blow drying process, but the moisture loss during blow drying was insignificant compared to air drying. Additionally, exposure to heat over ten blow-drying sessions led to a lightening of hair color, with increased surface damage corresponding to higher heat exposure.
It's important to note that the study didn't consider variables such as environment and hair texture, which can affect drying conditions. Factors like hair density, texture, and humidity levels in the air influence the rate of air-dried hair damage. The duration of the air drying process likely impacts structural damage, in my opinion. Personally, I would prefer cuticle damage over structural damage because I can repair the cuticle with conditioning and strengthening masks.
The key takeaway is to consider how long your hair remains wet if you choose to air dry it. The longer your hair stays wet, the more susceptible it is to damage. Additionally, wet hair is more fragile and has weakened elasticity, so avoid tight styles and never go to bed with wet hair. It's less damaging to blow dry your hair than to leave it wet. I prefer air drying my hair with at the very least a leave in conditioner and have not experienced damage, but I use a gentle detangling brush and refrain from touching my hair until it's fully dry, minimizing the risk of damage. Some people experience hair breakage because they are aggressive when their hair is wet, so be gentle and use a moderate temperature for your blow dryer. Avoid over drying your hair to maintain its health.